There will be evaluation charges no less than $55 ... and will be adjusted 
as to the time spent and special tools required to evaluate your vehicles' real conditions..

Volvos, Mercedes, BMW Audi diagnostics start out at $100.00

Diagnostic work - is no different than
 the physical work to perform the necessary corrections or repairs.
... And requires special tools that Advance Auto Never will own.

Try telling a doctor, that tests are not important ...
that you will not pay for a physical,  blood work or x-rays.
You will not receive the health care that you need - playing guessing games.

Doing your maintenance work and oil changes your way - resulted in
$32 Million Dollars in lost engines and transmissions  ...
 

in the settled class action lawsuit against Mercedes Benz in 2002.
 

You do your work with your tools and what you want or can do.

And then we will do what needs done - correctly with
Original Equipment parts and synthetic lubricants only.

Training is required to understand what we do and why .
Architects, Engineers & Doctors seem to have the ability to
respect the knowledge, training, highly sophisticated diagnostic tools.

The rest of the driving public - seems to  begrudge the evolution of today's
modern motor vehicles and what it takes to help you the owners.
Old Dogs have their daily habits ... Doesn't seem to matter how science changes things ...

Some people would not use the lubricants that will keep their life simpler at a lower cost ...
no matter what.

Amsoil Reduces Prices   

 

               European Import Car.com

304   228-6662     581-4051

Following the shop burning to the ground -
Nov 20th 2009
We are not interested in every nuisance caller
who just wants to chat.

We really are busy helping other people

Leave your message - make it interesting
and friendly so that we will return you call.

The life we live is a profession ... not a hobby.
 

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Amsoil Reduces Prices

  

2000 Volvo S80 2.9L VVT and Timing Belt Installation Tips.

This actually works without the bafflegab advise of the VADIS how to steps.

With the special tools installed on the rear of the camshafts
holding the cams at their proper installed positions,
and with the crankshaft locked
into position with the fixture or other special tool - in the hole plug
located in the rear side of the block behind the starter ...

Slacken off, but do not remove, the (3)screws
which secure the timing gear pulley
to the variable valve timing (VVT) unit.
 
Press the variable valve timing (VVT) unit /
timing gear pulley on the camshaft.

Install the center screw which secures the variable valve timing
 (VVT) unit to the camshaft and tighten slightly. 

Turn the variable valve timing (VVT) hub unit
Clockwise as far as it will go. 

Remove the center screw. 
Position the upper timing cover. 
 

Turn the vvt timing hub- THE HUB ASSEMBLY -
clockwise while holding the belt pulley securely
... So that the inner workings of the hub does not move.

As you come around to the 12 o'clock mark
in the upper timing cover on the intake cam shaft ... 
 Remember it does not matter where the marks land ...
 
but if you wish to use the 12 o'clock position of the pulley marks,
That is fine, and the simplest point of reference.

Bring the vvt hub around so that the belt pulley mark land close to the
12 o'clock position of the cover an snug the center bolt up.

Do not turn the hub backwards
(anti-clockwise) during this procedure.

NOW

Paint a red stripe across the top 12 o'clock 
of the vvt hub for reference -







Tighten the center screw in the variable valve timing
(VVT) unit to 120 Nm (88 ft. lbs.)

Check- Have a good look at that red stripe you painted - 
Recheck that the variable valve timing (VVT) unit
does not rotate when tightening. - WHY? Because it tends to move
with the tightening of the intake cam center bolt

88 foot pounds of torque is a lot .
If it did move - untighten the center bolt and back it up
just enough to allow for the motion that might happen
as it is tightened up this next time.

 

If everything looks good ...

And you have enough loose motion in the gear to remove the
timing belt slack out of the section of belt between the
Right side of the crank gear and the Intake Cam gear - then do
Install and tighten the center plug to 35 Nm (26 ft. lbs.) .

Now ...

keep the VVT hub where it was.  Don't turn it at all.

Because the cams are locked into position -
It really does not matter -
where you put the marks on the gears - seriously.

Just put them near the 12 o'clock positions.

The holes in both timing gears are slotted to give yourself some room
to move the gears back or forth to enable
you to take some slack out of the timing belt when you need to do so -
while you are installing the timing belt.

Set the timing belt into place -
Loosen both sets of cam gear bolts, clean the bolt threads,
and be prepared to individually apply blue lock-tite to each bolt -

 Remember

You set the timing belt tension - while the car gear bolts are loose..

Tension the exhaust cam with the heal of the angel head bar.

With a helper holding the tension on the base of the exhaust gear pulley and belt  -
Blue Locktite and tighten each of the e exhaust cam gear/pulley bolts

and then relax your pressure against the lower portion of the exhaust gear
that you held in place to keep the belt tight on the upward end.

With the timing belt tension set on the Exhaust Cam Gear ... 

Then each of the 3 intake cam gear bolts can be removed,
have blue lock tite applied and tightened up to spec.

This sets the belt position to drive the cams.

At this point - with the crank and cams still locked -

Now set the tensioner on the timing belt - the unit that is buried down on the front face of the engine.  Set it in the middle if it is a 68 degree day. and tighten the tensioner bolt to spec.

Do yourself a favor and use a touchup bottle of red paint
and you - yourself place 3 separate marks on each front cam gear face
and rear face edges to correspond to 9 o'clock, 12 o'clock, and 3 o'clock.
Make it visible so that you do not have to guess again -

And on the crank pointer on the oil pump face so that -
when you recheck - you will not need to strain or have a bother not
being able to see the marks well - that you just established as the base position.

The crank and cams were locked into place with the fixture tools
and the crank lock that you had installed in the plug hole
behind the starter motor - Now remove them.

Turn the engine over by hand 2 times, and then ...
set the engine back up so that the timing marks align properly again.

The 3 red marks you put on the gears - make it easy to verify
and will stop you from wasting any more time guessing.  

Test the timing belt tension - and ...
Verify, Verify , Verify everything is right and tight  

Before it is buttoned up for the last time.
 

Do NOT forget to use Blue Lock-Tite
on every bolt in this cam/gear/fastening.

Too much is at risk to have
the engine valves become destroyed again -

by neglecting this step.
 
It is Seriously IMPORTANT.

I know I have been redundant in repeating myself ... but
The actual directions from Volvo do not make a whole lot of sense
to me and to most people who read them - hoping to
install a timing belt on these kind of engines. 

I hope this helps anyone who needs and finds this information.